My readings about the Camino alerted me to pack a set of ear plugs to wear at night. One writer described the Camino sleeping experience as the “Super Bowl of snoring”. Therefore, to get a good night’s sleep in the communal bedroom might be impossible without the aid of ear plugs.
If the snoring was bad, I did not notice. Maybe the ear plugs worked after all, or maybe I was just dead tired. Either way, I had a good night’s sleep. It did not take me long to bounce out of bed and make my way into the bathroom to brush my teeth and comb my unruly hair.
I said good morning to my fellow Americans whose bunks were by the bathroom door as I passed by to collect my things from my bunk and put them in my backpack which was stowed in the main room by the door. But before I was to start the day’s hike, I needed to get some breakfast.
The kitchen area was busily used by several people preparing and or cooking their breakfast. I, on the other hand, took out some food from the bag of food I purchased the night before. I had a roll, some fruit and a can of diet coke. Ahhhh, breakfast of champions.
As soon as my fellow pilgrims finished their food, they put their boots on, slung their pack onto their back, and grabbed walking poles and off they went into the chill of the morning. The Korean girlfriends laughed and quickly spoke to each other while eating breakfast. My two fellow Americans sat together finishing up their cereal, while John, the Gleeful Korean businessman conversed with me about the Camino as I finished by diet coke.
Soon we were all ready to start our hike to our next stop, Roncesvalles. Today there was more mountain to climb. We all stood outside the hostel in the cold morning air as a small group trying to determine the way to the Camino. Looking around the area no sign (yellow arrow or shell) could be found. Collectively we all seemed to make the same decision to climb the stairs and move toward the main street slightly up hill from us.
The two American friends were next to me. I took the opportunity to ask them if they minded if I tagged along with them. Rosemary and Victoria both shook their heads and said, “Sure”. So off I went with my first two gifts from the Camino, Rosemary and Victoria (Vicky). My fresh start had begun and I was ready for the day’s challenge.
We walked through town trying to locate the sign of the Camino. Finally, the yellow arrow appeared on a white wall. Yes, we were headed in the correct direction as we exited the village of Valcarlos onto the roadway to Roncesvalles.
Today we would walk quite a distance on the two lane highway until we reached the forested pathway cutoff to Roncesvalles. There was some traffic as we traversed up the mountain highway so for the most part we had the road almost all to ourselves.
As we walked, we finally caught up with the Korean girlfriends who were wearing brightly colored rain gear. We asked if we could take pictures with them. We took turns taking photos with our respective phone cameras. All day long we would pass and then meet up with either the women or the happy Korean businessman, John.
As we walked up the mountain, I noticed that I was having less pain than the day before. The only issue which was noted by Rosemary was I seemed to have trouble breathing which made me tire easily. I think it was due to the elevation and the fact that I might not have been breathing correctly. As time went on I was able to stabilize my breathing and my pace which made the hike easier.
The road began to switch back and forth as we climbed toward our destination. The higher we went the colder it became. However, it did not seem so cold because of the energy required to climb the mountain kept me toasty. We finally came to a sign directing us off the road and onto the mountain path off the highway. To recharge my energy I ate some of my food supplies. I was very happy that I had brought the fruit, nuts and bottle water the night before. If I had not purchased the food supplies, I would have been out of luck because there were no stores anywhere to buy any thing.
The higher we hiked patches of snow appeared everywhere; however, no hint from the sky that anymore would be falling soon which was a relief. For hours we kept winding our way up the mountain to Roncesvalles. Slowly but surely we climbed past the occasional creek. The air was fresh and revitalizing.
There is nothing like making the summit. Ah! No more pronounced climbing. At the summit there was a little hill with an iron cross on a tall pole. Rosemary and Vicky climbed to where the iron cross. I remained below waiting and watching them scale the hill. Rosemary and Vicky are from Montana and very use to hiking and elevation. They seemed to have an abundance of energy, unlike me.
Rosemary and Vicky were fun to be around and easy to talk with as well. I was to find throughout my time on the Camino that when I met people walking the Camino that a special kind of connection was immediately formed. Maybe it was because we were all part of the same journey. We were all vulnerable. Conversations were made easily. I had never experienced this level of comfort talking to someone who was a stranger. What would it be like to have this level of comfort everyday back home?
Rosemary and Vicky were gifts to me who were there for me when I needed support and encouragement to go the distance. It was their early support which made my second and third day on the Camino an enjoyable and doable hike.
Thank you ladies, the best gift ever.
