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Left behind in Bordeaux
Before I started this journey, I promised myself that I would approach each unexpected event or difficult situation without panic. I would hold the event in a frame, “this is my adventure, destiny take your best shot.”
I knew I had placed myself in the sphere of uncertainty with my decision to walk the Camino. Further more , I knew that I would have to face my fear about being alone and responsible for all my outcomes. Although the mere thought of all this scared the shit out of me; it also excited me to see how I would handle walking into a world which was virtually out of my control. I would have to be open to the universe and let the moment unfold without expectation.
So here I was in an all but vacant train station in Bordeaux late at night. My room in Bayonne previously reserved and paid for similarly vacant. This was to be my first foothold into uncertainty and the testing of my ability to solve a problem without freaking out.
I took a deep breath and sat down in the train station and started to plot my plans for the night and tomorrow’s journey to Bayonne.
Once I collected my thoughts fortified by a can of Diet Coke (no Pepsi sold …Coke is the carrier of choice in France and Spain) my corrections started to unfold.
First order of go was to purchase my train ticket to Bayonne. Thank God they had ticket machines in the station since all the Station personnel had left for the night. I went to the ticket machine to find that the instructions were in French. Did I mention, I have limited understanding of French. However, I had enough to transact the purchase of my ticket.
Interestingly, this was also my first experience with helpful locals. But being a suspicious American, I was rather illusive with the French man who came out of nowhere standing intimately next to me by the ticket machine asking me where was I going. A little taken back I immediately looked around to see if he and I were alone in the station. There was a small group of young people within shouting distance. Good- quick relief.
I told him Bayonne. He started to tell me, no not that train. “You take the train to Hondo (or something like that) not Bayonne.” I thanked him for his help, but stated, I could handle it. He insisted again… not Bayonne. As he kept talking in French/ English, I went ahead and purchased the first train scheduled for Bayonne.
Fortunately, the train station in Bordeaux is located in the town. I found a room at the Hotel Ibis which was across the street from train station.
The next day came quickly because of little time left to sleep. At the train station early the next morning I found that the helpful French man was correct, the train to Bayonne was also going to “Hondo” village. The train ride was uneventful. I arrived in Bayonne and quickly found a bus to St Jean Pied de Port .
The bus was not crowded because this was the beginning of the Camino walking season (March 26th). The numbers ramp up with more pilgrims as you approached the summer. Summer being the height of the pilgrimage. Most of the bus riders sat in small groups of two or more. There were just a few of us which sat in seat without companion next to us.
The conversations were hushed but filled with growing anticipation as we moved through the beautiful country side.
St Jean Pied de Port is a commune in south-western France in the Pyrenean foothills. The town is also the old capital of the traditional Basque province of Lower Navarre. It is a small medieval town, population of approximately 1,500.
Once in town the bus parked. We all off loaded with no pomp or ceremony. No one said anything. There was no direction announced. Like, ” This way to the Pilgrims’ office.” A couple of people walked over to a government type building or down the street to some houses. The rest seemed to start walking collectively toward the hill where the town was located. I stepped into line with the rest of the bus riders.
The pilgrim’s office was on main street. I entered to register with the Camino volunteers. During the registration process the staff provide me with list of hostels to stay each night, their corresponding rates, and a map of the Camino. If you had not purchased your pilgrim credential, you can obtain one at this time. I had purchased prior to arriving. They helped me complete the first page. The credential is stamped and dated where you stay each night as well as anywhere you may eat.
The staff also provide up to date weather information. The reason being is the start of the Camino has two routes to choose from, the Napoleon Route (25 km) or Valcarlos Route (24 km) to get to Roncesvalles. They informed us that the Napoleon Route was closed due to snow, which was fine with me. I wasn’t going to go that way. It is straight up the mountains.
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St Jean Pied de Port -
Pilgrims Register at Office -
A river runs through it – main street St Jean
After all the registration business was done I was off to find a hostel to spend the night and place to get something to eat. After eating and securing my lodging for the night, I went out to discover this picture post card town.
There was very little people milling about because it is early beginning of the Camino. There were not very many café or restaurants open. Part of the problem was the time of day. It was that period of time when most places shut down. I was to find out that in Europe the timetable for eating dinner is much latter than in America. The real activity starts in late evening, around my bedtime.
I decided to locate the signs of the Camino (a yellow arrow on a wall or a shell) so I would be sure to go the right way because it would be dark when I started to walk.
As I wandered back to the hostel where I was staying, I could not believe I was finally here. All my training is now over… This is it!
