The last five miles of the day to Roncesvalles was a climb from 1,312 feet to 3,116 feet, a gain of 1,804 feet. The last miles were hard, but nothing like the other day when I reached Valcarlos ready to die. I think the difference was more psychological than physical in reaching Valcarlos since it was a small gain of only 328 feet. Oh the “drama” of yesterday.
I am glad that I did not calculate the elevation before I started the second day hike. Somethings are better not known. I did, however, learn my best practice was to read my guidebook about the next day’s journey and look at the map to gain a general impression of the ups and downs of my next day’s walk. And that was good enough.
When we reached the summit the land flatten except for a small hill with an iron cross at the top. There were small clusters of hikers milling around on the flat and at the base of the hill. Rosemary and Vicky made their way to climb the top of the hill. No way for me, I had enough of hill climbing for the day.
Near the hill that Rosemary and Vicky climbed was a modern stone ”A” frame chapel. To see a modern design is almost disconcerting, out of place, when you are surrounded by ancient buildings and churches. I leaned against the stone wall that surrounded the chapel while I waited for my hiking buddies to join me for the remaining walk to Roncesvalles.
Walking down the hill toward our nights’ accommodation appeared the side view of the stone constructed Albergue Collegiata Convent in Roncesvalles (valley of thorns). Like St Jean Pied de Port, we were enveloped by the medieval buildings and loads of atmosphere as we walked around the area . It was like stepping into a PBS (Public Broadcast Station) story only all the people are speaking to you. I found it almost overwhelming. It is amazing that the local population of the area is only 30 people. In addition, this site is also the major entry point for the Spanish pilgrims.
There are other places to stay, but we choose to stay at the Collegiate for 12 euros. The place had recently been remodeled. The accommodations spreads over three floors with bunk beds in cubicles of four. The recent modern renovations updating the sleeping and bathroom areas were clean and very pleasant.
We found our way to the main entrance of the albergue. Many people were milling around the outside. Upon entering the reception area, we were immediately confronted by a tall, thin, older woman with a German accent with a booming and commanding voice staring at us with steadfast blue eyes she said, “Shoes, there; Backpack, there; Poles, there; then, You, in Line there!” I felt we had fallen into a Seinfeld episode about the Soup Nazi only her role was the hostel Nazi. We did not dare say a word or ask a question of this commanding woman. We did just what we were told and kept our eyes forward and stood quietly and dutiful in the line where we were directed.
Shortly thereafter, the line moved quickly to where we paid for the night’s stay. We gave our money to an older, very cheerful woman volunteer with long tumbling hair from a knot on the top of her head. She had great fun pronouncing or should I say mispronouncing Rosemary’s name. She kept calling her “Rose Marie” while singing an old song by the same name (originally sung by Nelson Eddy years and years ago).
